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Dig out loose material, fill with the proper compound (spackle for drywall, exterior filler/epoxy for wood), sand smooth, and spot-prime repairs. Skipping repair prep telegraphs defects and shortens coating life.
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Wash and degloss surfaces as needed, scrape loose paint, sand for tooth, and mask edges, fixtures, and flooring. Careful masking and protection saves cleanup time and delivers crisp lines for a professional finish.
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Identify and correct the moisture source, clean or remove contaminated material per local guidance, and let it dry fully. Only then apply compatible primers or coatings. Painting over active mold will not solve the problem.
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Switching from dark to light (or vice versa) often requires primer to improve hide and ensure uniform color. Tint the primer toward the finish color for fewer topcoats and better coverage.
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Look for mold and mildew-resistant primers in damp areas, rust-inhibiting primers on metal, and stain-blocking formulas for smoke, tannin, or marker bleed. Verify compatibility with the finish coat (latex vs. oil) and follow recoat times.
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Semi-transparent or solid stains penetrate and weather more gracefully than paint on some wood substrates, helping avoid bubbling, cracking, and large-scale peeling when properly maintained.

High pressure can gouge wood, etch masonry, or force water behind siding. Use the lowest effective pressure, a fan tip, and maintain distance. Allow adequate dry time before priming or staining.

Moisture in wood, stucco, or concrete can trap vapor and cause blisters. Use a moisture meter and wait until readings are within manufacturer guidance before coating.

Anti-graffiti clear coats or specialty paints make cleanup easier. Select sacrificial or non-sacrificial systems based on expected cleaning method and substrate.

Many paint retailers run predictable promotions. Call ahead to learn the schedule and buy in bulk when appropriate. Store unopened cans per manufacturer guidance and keep a labeled touch-up quart for later.
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